After Breakfast here at the Hotel, we were picked up at the Hotel Dock on the Perfume River for the approximately 40 minute upriver cruise to the Thien Mu Pagoda. This is a really holy site to the Vietnamese and a one time home to early Rulers. We spent about an hour or so there, checking out all the most important areas of the Pagoda. As has been the case throughout the trip, our guide Phai, has what seems unlimited knowledge of the Vietnamese geography, customs, and history. Phai was born and raised in Da Nang and is a graduate of Hue University, with a degree in Vietnamese History. He has been a guide since 1993 and has four children. Two of his Children live in America. After our tour of the Pagoda, we were picked up by a bus and taken to the Hue Citadel, where we had an extensive walking tour. The Citadel has an outer wall that has a moat in many areas. There is also a second inner wall that surrounds the Forbidden City. This was the home of the Emperor for many years and is considered one of the most holy sites in the Country. No vehicular traffic is allowed inside the Forbidden City. Some areas require you to remove your hat, and in some cases your shoes to enter them. During the war, the Citadel was the site of an intense battle, during the Tet Offensive of early 1968. Further fighting took place there in 1972 and 1974, after American Forces had left and the NVA decided to break the provisions of the 1973 Paris Peace Accords. There was an ARVN Compound within in the walls in 1968 and it was under siege by several thousand well equipped and determined NVA Soldiers. US Marine and Army units were tasked with crossing the Perfume River, from their positions on the southern side of the River, to relieve the embattled ARVN Soldiers. An intense 2 week battle ensued before this mission was accomplished. There were many casualties on both sides, and the battle did not end until all the occupying NVA Soldiers were either killed or escaped to the north and west of the City. Despite initial efforts by US and ARVN forces to limit battle damage, eventually major damage was done throughout the complex. Initially US and ARVN forces did not use any indirect fire or air strikes in the battle. Due to the stubborn resistance of the NVA and rising casualties on the US and ARVN side, this prohibition was finally lifted. The resulting damage was significant, even in the Forbidden City. Evidence of much of this damage is still apparent today. The Vietnamese Government is slowly repairing much of the damage and authentically rebuilding many of the original structures. This work has been very slow and is largely dependent on financial support from other Countries. Massive amounts of repair and rebuilding remain. We noticed work being done during our visit today. Following our walking tour, we were picked up by our bus, outside the Northern Gate, and transported to the Les Jardins De La Carambole Restaurant for a Lunch that combines French and Vietnamese food. This turned out to be one of our more popular meals, in that one of the courses was an excellent steak. After an excellent meal, we were taken by bus, back to our Hotel for an afternoon of needed leisure. Many used the time to visit the Hotel Pool and utilize the Spa services. A few other notes of interest about our Hotel here in Hue. The Huong Giang was used as a residence for high ranking ARVN Officers during the "American War" as they generally call it here. As a result, it became the site of a major battle during Tet 1968, when the NVA and VC broke the Holiday truce and launched major attacks all over the Country. When the NVA attacked Hue, they targeted the Hotel, and it sustained significant damage. All that damage has long since been repaired. They did however leave a large bullet hole in a window in the stairwell between the second and third floors, as a reminder of the intense battle that took place at the Hotel. A plaque commemorates the event. Tomorrow, we will be leaving Hue for our next stop. We will be going over the famous Hai Van Pass by bus to the seaside city of Da Nang, home to many American Forces during the war.

The boat that took us upriver to the Thien Mu Pagoda. It was a smooth ride and gave us an opportunity to view many sites in Hue, on both banks of the Perfume River.

The steps to the entry to the Thien Mu Pagoda.

Picture of tour boats docked at the Thien Mu Pagoda. Perfume River, looking toward its source in Laos can also be seen.

A view of the Citadel Guard Tower, as seen from inside the Forbidden City. The flag can be seen from nearly all points in both North and South Hue City.